Mediterranean Garden Society
Mediterranean Garden Society
AGM tour - Monday 31 March to Monday 7 April 2025
The photo at the top of this page shows the peaks of the Taygetus mountain range, viewed from the outskirts of Kardamyli (Photo Katerina Georgi)
‘The Three Fingers Tour’, Peloponnese, Greece
Introduction
The Peloponnese peninsula, separated from mainland Greece by the Corinth canal, is characterised by its mountainous interior and deeply indented coastline. Its highest peak, with an altitude of 2,407 metres, is in the Taygetos mountain range, which forms the spine of the Mani Peninsula.
In common with most of Greece, the Peloponnese has no significant tradition of ornamental gardening, or garden design. The emphasis was always on subsistence gardening - the growing of fruit and vegetables for domestic use. Nevertheless we can benefit from the exceptional biodiversity, rich archaeological heritage, and extreme contrasts of its landscape, to view the flora as nature intended, in its natural habitat.
Early spring is arguably the best time of year botanically, when the hillsides are awash with multi coloured wildflowers, punctuated by acid green Euphorbia and splashes of Anemone. We will visit the three fingers of the southern Peloponnese, to explore sites of both horticultural and architectural interest, botanising amongst atmospheric ancient ruins colonised by chasmophytes, and invariably set in spectacular, rugged landscapes, which perfectly epitomise the principle of genus loci.
Trip summary
Day 1 Monday 31 March - we travel by coach from central Athens, by way of the beautiful city of Nafplio, the first capital of modern Greece. We will explore Akronafplia and spend some time in the old town before traveling on to Sparta, our base for the first night.
Day 2 Tuesday 1 April - we will explore the UNESCO World Heritage site of Mystras, the last centre of Byzantine learning and culture. Set on a steeply sloping site in a stunning landscape dominated by Cupressus and Pinus, the Byzantine ruins are interspersed with myriad wildflowers such as Himantoglossum robertianum and Campanula topaliana. We then make our way to Gythio, where we will explore the tiny islet of Kranae, connected to land by a short causeway. The islet is also known as Marathonisi (fennel island) because of the abundant Ferula communis that grow here. According to legend, Paris and Helen spent their first night on Kranae island, after eloping together. Our next two nights will be spent on the other side of the causeway, in the charming town of Gythio.
Day 3 Wednesday 2 April - we visit the stunning natural ‘fjord’ and wetlands of Limeni Gerakas, on the east coast. We will make our way up to ancient Zarax, via a track punctuated with Moraea sisyrinchium and Serapias orientalis. Once at the top we can enjoy both the flora, and panoramic views of the coastline. Later we will explore the acropolis and fortress town of Monemvasia, one of the oldest continually inhabited fortified towns in Europe, where we can expect to find swathes of Ferula communis, Cerinthe retorta, and Campanula growing in the dry-stone walls.
Day 4 Thursday 3 April - we will head south along the middle finger to Cape Tainaro where, if we are lucky, we may spot Tulipa goulimyi and Fritillaria davisii. Keen walkers may head for the lighthouse at the tip of the peninsula where, standing at the most southerly point of mainland Greece, they can gaze across the endless expanse of blue, towards north Africa. From here we will make our way to our base for the next four nights, the pretty seaside town of Kardamyli, mentioned by Homer in the Iliad, and one of the oldest settlements in the Peloponnese. It has spectacular views of the Taygetos mountains to the east, and the Bay of Messinia to the west.
Day 5 Friday 4 April - we will explore the western finger, visiting Koroni and Methoni, considered the ‘chief eyes’ of the ruling Venetian Republic, due to their strategic positions. The castle of Koroni, is the only castle in Greece which is still inhabited, and we may roam freely among the houses, small gardens and cultivated fields. The pretty convent garden within the castle walls is lovingly tended by the few remaining nuns. An impressive specimen of Brachychiton discolor flourishes there, grown from seed gifted by a visitor. The grounds of Methoni castle cover a vast area, where native planting is allowed free rein, and the many plants thriving amongst the ruins
and paved paths are testament to the resilience of natives.
Day 6 Saturday 5 April - we will visit two gardens near Kardamyli. The first, a water wise garden on a sunbaked hillside above the village, developed over the last 13 years using mediterranean natives. Those who opt to walk up to the garden should spot Cyclamen rhodium ssp. peloponnesiacum on the track. The second garden is the beautifully located property of the late writer and war hero, Sir Patrick Leigh Fermor and his wife Joan, now in the custody of the Benaki Museum. Members will
be able to enjoy a buffet lunch in the stunning setting of the garden, overlooking Kalamitsi Bay.
Day 7 Sunday 6 April - on our final day, we will stroll through the flower-filled lanes of old Kardamyli, with its vernacular gardens, to the 17thC fortified dwelling complex of the Mourtzinos clan, where we can view the workshops, war tower, family church of St. Spiridon and even the walled vegetable garden. After refreshments we will gather in the re-purposed family rooms, above the old olive press, to hear the talk by our eminent guest speaker, followed by our farewell lunch at a nearby taverna.
Day 8 Monday 7 April - we travel back to Athens, with a stop at the Corinth canal.
Please note that places on this event will be limited due to various practical constraints, so early booking is recommended, once the booking platform opens on the MGS website.
Download a PDF version of the preliminary tour programme here.
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